Article Index: The Deep South

Travel Stories from Argentina, Chile & Uruguay

1. Argentina
Arrival Argentina (Buenos Aires)
‘Coffee?’ I asked, smiling at the hostess. ‘You speak Spanish!’ exclaimed the Brazilian grandmother sitting next to me. She had carefully cropped hair, long ring-adorned fingers and a... More...
On Football and Dogs (Resistencia)
they’re about to play, one of the Dhaka home teams, and along with half the city I am hoping for an Argentine victory... More...





Oxygen (La Quiaca)
The country had been creative, with cacti decorated desert hillsides and twisted, multicoloured cliffs that earned their poetic names like the ‘Artist’s Palette,’ and looked as a great wealth of minerals. There were windblown rock formations and it was worth the breathing strain to see it... More...

Rodent Tourism (Estero del Ibera)
Her body was a little plump, overweight; but she was loved. As she flitted about, like a bridal party attending to its bride it followed her: that long earthworm of a tail... More...


The Mission (San Ignacio)
A policeman patrolled, either protecting the ruins from me and the two Europeans or protecting us from the ruins. Whatever the objective, it was achieved by carrying a gun and plucking fruit from wild citrus... More...







Where the World is Most Definitely Flat 
(Puerto Iguacu)
Maybe it’s the collusion and deception of sunshine and spray, together creating permanent rainbows far below which lure like sirens water to the edge. Maybe they conspire with the unseeable rocks at the bottom to hit and split water so violently the whole place... More...

2. Chile
Desert Grapes
(La Serena, Coquimbo)
Chile is an endless Pacific sliver of a land: it can only increase the chances of a north-going, south-going running-into-each-other. There’s hardly room to... More...

The Elements of the End of the World 
(Hanga Roa, Rapa Nui) 
The Oceans keep secrets. They hold creatures rarely seen by man, alien-looking organisms that live beyond the reach of sunlight on the dark Ocean floor: creatures that baffle science. There are stories... More... 




3. Uruguay
A Little Candombe (Salto)
Not realising the rolling hills of farmland, the cattle towns and forgotten villages could consume six hours when coming by bus from Montevideo, the capital, I arrived later than expected. For much of the way... More...
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