Article Index: At Home in Bolivia

Travel Tales from the Andes

Anatomy (La Paz)
People get nervous when they have to give a presentation. Some like to write the whole script beforehand and meticulously memorise what it is they’re going to say. Others prefer the safety of palm cards, with the... More...


Do Horses Bite? (Tupiza)
Shhh! Do you hear it? Barely audible? Wait… Yes, the thurram-thurram-thurram, that terrible sound, is growing, coming, gaining ground. Onto the horses! The thunder of hooves is ricocheting off the canyon walls. Lightning speed: they’re coming to catch us; no time to lose! More... 
From Bolivia, with Love (La Paz)
Knit two, purl one, so the patterns went, knit three, purl one, as the knitting needles clicked, as the ladies transformed the library of yarn on the shelves about the living room into jumpers, knit two, and cosy woollen hats with ear flaps, purl three, or vests for spoilt pet dogs in the cold-climate west...  More...



Oxygen (Villazon)
The country had been creative, with cacti decorated desert hillsides and twisted, multicoloured cliffs that earned their poetic names like the ‘Artist’s Palette,’ and looked as a great wealth of minerals. There were windblown rock formations and it was worth the breathing strain to see it... More...





Reminiscing with a River  (Guayaramerin & Trinidad)
O Mamoré, generous sustenance giver, tributary, great earthworm of a river: I see you from above, pushing off and pushing on, northwards flowing, northwards growing, like an uneven, winding hem across the landscape. More...
The Meaning of Seeing Things (La Paz)
‘Those glasses aren’t real,’ Situ said. ‘What?’ I asked, slightly smiling at the unexpectedness of the statement. ‘They’re not real. They have plain glass,’ he said, ‘young people wear them to look smart.’...
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Under the Sky, Not Far (Urmiri)
High in the mountains of Urmiri, Hotel Gloria sits like stupid poetry. Tucked into a minor Andean crease in the South American shirt, beneath the great plateau, the Altiplano, the lodgings at the end... More... 



Whispers at the Gate (La Paz)
...provide the premises and the main course of vegetarian sushi, featuring a Japanese salt available only at a single shop in the south of La Paz, a shop which isn’t actually a shop and involves banging on a private gate only known to... More... 

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